do I remove scratches from stainless steel, likely from a scratch pad?
A. Evidently the scratch pad was too aggressive and was pulled across the grain. Elevator doors normally have
the stainless steel grain going top to bottom. You can try using a white nylon scouring pad and the stainless steel cleaner.
Scrub it only with the grain.
You may have to graduate to a
green pad next if the white does not remove the scratches. It is possible you may end up with a dull spot, but it will be
uniform with the direction of the grain and less noticeable.
Q. How do I clean and properly disinfect tanning beds and salon surfaces and
A. A thorough cleaning with an approved
hospital grade quat or hydrogen peroxide based disinfectant cleaner will do the job. The most popular method is to spray on
the solution and let it dwell for recommended contact time and then wipe dry with a clean microfiber cloth. With recent outbreaks
of MRSA and other transmittable diseases, it would be good to have your bases covered.
Your supplier should be
able to verify if the disinfectant you plan to use is effective on MRSA. Your
clients may object and there are other risks to the use of bleach. If the product you use requires a 10 minute contact time,
you would probably need to use bucket of disinfectant and a damp towel to apply an ample amount to the equipment before it
new products on the market require a one-minute contact time. These would be worth looking into. The other critical concern
is to not only clean the beds and rest rooms, but all hand touch areas such as door knobs, chairs, bed handles, exercise equipment,
sign in counter, clipboards, pens, etc. Don't forget the number one source of contamination - hands that are not properly
or regularly washed.
Here are some links regarding procedures and products:
Center of Disease Control info on MRSA
EPA’s Registered Sterilizers, Tuberculocides, and Antimicrobial Products Against Certain
Human Public Health Bacteria and Viruses
is the best cleaning procedure for a gym or exercise room?
A typical cleaning process for a school or university gym and rest rooms would be as follows:
Restrooms, Locker Rooms
1. Empty waste receptacles and change liners.
2. Thoroughly clean and disinfect
toilets and urinals.
3. Thoroughly clean and disinfect shower rooms and dressing rooms.
4. Restock dispensers:
soap, paper towel, toilet tissue and sanitary napkins.
5. Clean mirrors; clean and disinfect urinals and stools; clean
basins; polish stainless steel and chrome surfaces.
6. Spot wash walls, lockers, and partitions.
7. Dust mop and
wet mop floors with disinfectant solution.
1. Damp clean and polish partitions thoroughly.
at least one gallon of water down floor drains.
3. Dust wall and ceiling vents.
4. Clean doors and wall tile.
1. De-scale fixtures.
2. Scrub floor with floor scrubber.
Shower Rooms, Locker Rooms
and Dressing Rooms Procedures
1. Empty all trash containers (including small pieces of soap and other debris)
2. Reline containers with plastic liner.
3. Spray or wipe containers with germicide/disinfectant solution.
Wipe dry with clean cloth or paper towel.
Benches Furniture and Lockers
1. Spray or wipe (with cloth) with germicide/disinfectant
solution and scrub or wipe dry with clean cloth.
2. Spot clean walls and lights as needed (as above). Replace burned
3. Replenish paper towels, soap, etc. Clean dispensers and lock.
1. Wipe down walls
with germicide/disinfectant solution and cloth, wedge mop, sponge mop, or brush. Let solution stay on walls for a few minutes
to allow chemicals to work (dwell time).
2. Scrub or agitate solution to loosen soil and scum. Rinse with clean water.
3. Polish handles, shower heads, and other hardware and wipe dry.
4. Clean hair, etc. from shower drain.
The flooring surfaces vary considerably in the different buildings. However, the following is recommended:
1. Sweep or dust mop (treated) floor to remove large pieces of paper and other debris.
2. Pick up towels, socks, shoes,
etc. and store appropriately. Lightly flood floors with germicide/detergent solution and warm water.
3. Let stand 3 minutes
or more for chemical action.
4. Agitate or scrub with wet mop, brush (long handled),or power buffer, if necessary.
5. Pick up soiled solution with mop, squeegee to drain, or wet vacuum up.
waste receptacles and replace liners.
2. Dust mop court floors and spot clean using recommended treatment for dust mop.
3. Clean glass in doors and partitions.
4. Clean and disinfect drinking fountains.
5. Vacuum traffic patterns
on carpeted floors; remove gum and soil spots.
6. Dust furniture.
7. Dust mop and wet mop tiled floors.
Spot clean walls; remove graffiti.
1. Vacuum carpeted areas thoroughly.
2. Clean door surfaces.
3. Vacuum upholstered furniture. Clean all wooden and vinyl furniture. (low dusting, below 5 feet)
4. Clean and
polish brass or chrome.
5. Spray buff tiled floors; remove scuffmarks.
High dust (above 5’)
or vacuum vents, lights, pipes, Venetian blinds, drapes, connecting horizontal and vertical wall surfaces.
Reseal floor using manufacturer’s recommended procedures and finishes.
Q. What is the best way to remove water spots from tubs and shower glass?
To remove mineral deposits from glass, porcelain and chrome you will need a safe acidic cleaner - normally
phosphoric acid formulated as a lime and scale remover. Protect any vulnerable areas such as carpet, and wear gloves and goggles
when applying the acid. Do not mix with any other chemicals. Begin scrubbing with a white nylon pad and observe the results.
Make sure the scouring pad does not scratch the surface. Squeegee or wipe off the residue and observe the results. Repeat
until mineral deposits are removed. Finally, rinse with water and polish dry.
Q. Will mopping a
floor with a chlorine solution dull the floor finish? The lab floor needs to be disinfected.
I would check first with your local jan/san vendor for a chlorinated cleaner that is
compatible with the finish you use. A normal disinfecting ratio is 200 ppm chlorine, which weakens many finishes. Check the
label dilution which may run 3/4 cup per gallon of cold water. Remind the customer that chlorine is corrosive on most metals
that it comes in contact with and you can not be responsible for damage. Chlorine has a distinct odor compared to a safer
lemon quat disinfectant or an orange H202.
Check to see what might be spilled on the floor in the lab and what is being tracked in from the
outside. Parking lot sealant can raise havoc, so make sure there is adequate matting. With high traffic and a light color,
you will need to schedule in a regular scrub and top coating of the traffic lanes. A scrub with a neutral cleaner and blue
pad should remove all the soil, if performed often enough.
some of the answers in this column for procedures on scrub and top coat. This will avoid frequent stripping. Also, mopping
thoroughly with a premium floor cleaner and then burnishing can also help remove the discoloration. Some products work better
than others, but what is important is using high performance products that are readily available in your trade area.
is the best way to clean the baseboards and corners of our marble floors?
A. Detergent solution and elbow grease. Actually, there are lots of ways to approach the challenge including:
steam vapor, automated baseboard cleaning machines, and clinging-foam spray and a doodlebug. If you choose a hand method,
your best bet is to provide adequate contact time and agitation.
You could mix up a heavy duty cleaner in a pump-up sprayer. Apply it liberally
to the baseboard and edges and allow it to set 10 minutes. Spray a second time and begin scrubbing with a brush or doodlebug.
Wet vac and rinse, or follow with a spray rinse of baseboards using an autoscrubber for pickup. Since it is marble, you will
undoubtedly avoid using any acid-based product. And once the mess is cleaned up, a lesson in proper mopping technique is in
Q. How do we clean stainless steel commodes that are tarnished and have a urine buildup?
A. Your janitorial product supplier should have a recommendation
for phosphoric acid or liquid pumice-based cleaners. You apply it to the damaged area (commode or sink) and then scour with
a green nylon pad. It is crucial to determine the direction of the grain and only scrub with it. Cross-grain scrubbing can
leave permanent scratches. Rinse the fixture and re-clean, if required, with your normal cleaning product. Strong hydrochloric
acid products should be avoided as they tarnish stainless.
Proper use of cleaning solutions
Q. I know there is a dilution
ratio with chemicals when diluted with water, but recently my staff is putting less water in their mop buckets due to worry
about spillage. . This concerns me due to not only the waste of chemicals but to the dilution not being effective. Are there
procedures for properly wringing out a wet mop? Example: You should have enough water to rinse mop out before wringing out
the mop. We typically use a 26-31 quart bucket.
A. You may have to provide a written procedure for your staff, since they obviously
need to follow one that will avoid wasting time and chemical.
The first problem with only having a small amount
of water in the mop bucket is accelerated saturation levels in the cleaning solution. Let me explain. If you have a 26 quart
mop bucket and fill it half full, you would have 13 quarts of clean water. If the disinfectant mix ratio called for ½
oz. per gal, you would add 1.625 oz. of disinfectant.
Now, at this dilution ratio, you should be able to mop a
given amount of floor (usually 600-2,000 sq. ft. depending upon the soil load and type of soil being removed). If you add
only 6 quarts of water to the bucket, the cleaning solution would reach a soil saturation level much faster and you will have
to change the solution sooner.
Secondly, using less water sets you up for mopping with a dirty solution as well
as a dirty mop. With only a slight amount of water, there will be insufficient rinsing action of the mop head. How often would
you take a bath with only 1 inch of water in the tub?
If the workers are concerned about spillage, ask them to
curtail filling above the halfway point. Always push by the mop handle with the mop in the bottom of the bucket, never in
the press. Carry the setup over thresholds.
Q. What does it mean when the label
says to mix the product 1:3 for a floor stripping product?
A. Normally, the mix ratio is given in parts (units) of undiluted product to parts (units) of water. So, if the
label ratio shows mixing 1:3, it means measuring 1 part of stripper to 3 parts of water. If you were mixing up a gallon of
stripper solution you would add 1 quart of stripper to 3 quarts of water. Likewise, if the label shows mixing 1:6, you would
have 1 quart of stripper to 6 quarts of water. Keep in mind that, as long as the ratio is maintained, you can use any part
or unit of measurement, pints, quarts, gallons, liters, even tablespoons.
Most mop buckets have quart calibrations
marked on the inside of the bucket. So you might see 4 quarts, 8 quarts, 16 quarts, and so on. For a large job, you would
consult the label, and if the mix ratio is listed as 1:4, you could add 2 quarts of stripper to 8 quarts of water (2 times
4=8). Or, you could add 1 gallon of stripper and then refill the bottle four times with water (4 gallons) to achieve a 1:4
Keep in mind that most strippers have variable mix dilutions for light, medium, or heavy buildup. If the
floor has no gloss or buildup, use the light mixture, and if there appears to be a heavy buildup, then mix it heavy according
to the label.
The first 30 minutes of the initial strip operation gives you time to observe if the mixture is correct.
If you started light and the results are poor, then you would progress to a stronger mix. This can be judged by squeegeeing
the area immediately after the strip operation to observe the percent of removal. A complete removal of 100% shows a dull,
yet clean floor. It’s important to tweak the mix ratio at the very beginning of the job.